In short
- The flowers are gathered into clusters of several to a dozen or more per shoot - this, and not the size of the shrub, is what decides membership of the group.
- Spring pruning is lighter than for hybrid tea roses: the strongest stems are cut back to 25-30 cm above the ground and weaker ones lower; hybrid teas are cut back to 10-15 cm from the base.
- Spent flower heads are removed whole, above the first fully developed leaf - individual blooms are not snapped off one by one.
- They are planted more densely than hybrid tea roses: 40-60 cm apart, usually 3-5 shrubs of one cultivar per square metre.
- It is repeat-flowering on the current year's growth, from June until the first frosts, usually into October.
Botanical data
- Family
- Rosaceae (Rosaceae)
- Height
- 0.5–1.5 m
- Width
- 0.4–1 m
- Habit
- Upright
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Full sun
- Soil
- Loamy, Humus-rich
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- June–October
- Hardiness
- USDA 5a–9b
- Propagation
- From cuttings, By layering
Characteristics
An erect, densely branched shrub, usually reaching 0.5-1.0 m in height and 0.4-0.8 m in width; the most vigorous cultivars, such as Schneewittchen, reach about 1.5 m in height and about 1 m in width. Membership of the group is decided, however, not by the size of the shrub but by the structure of the inflorescence: the buds are set in many-flowered clusters of several to a dozen or more at the tip of the shoot and open in succession, so that a single cluster stays ornamental for many days. The individual flower is usually 5-8 cm across - clearly less than the 10-12 cm typical of hybrid tea roses - and may be single, semi-double or fully double depending on the cultivar; the combined area of the flowers open at any one time is, however, greater, which is where the stronger mass effect comes from. Individual cultivars, such as Amber Queen, match hybrid teas in flower diameter - in that case it is the cluster, and not the size of the single bloom, that settles the group. The leaf is odd-pinnate, usually made up of 5-7 toothed, glossy leaflets. The stems are stiff and prickly, and the shrub branches low down, so it goes bare at the base more slowly than a hybrid tea rose. Flowering is repeat and takes place on the current year's growth: after the most abundant flush in June the plant sends out further flowering shoots and blooms intermittently until the first frosts. Fragrance is a feature of the cultivar rather than of the whole group: alongside practically scentless cultivars there are intensely fragrant ones, such as the yellow Friesia or the spicily scented Amber Queen - which is why scent should not be assumed for the group but checked for the particular cultivar. For pollinators the structure of the flower is what counts: in fully double cultivars the stamens are largely transformed into petals, so real forage is provided only by single and semi-double cultivars - for the group as a whole the value for bees remains slight. It requires full sun (a minimum of 6 hours a day), an airy position sheltered from strong wind, and fertile, humus-rich soil with a slightly acid to neutral reaction, in the range 6.0-7.0; it tolerates waterlogged ground and compacted, trampled soil poorly. Nursery stock consists almost exclusively of cultivars budded onto a rootstock (most often Rosa canina or Rosa laxa), hence the requirement to set the bud union below the soil surface and to pull off suckers emerging beneath it. The dense cluster has one practical drawback: spent petals become packed inside it and in wet years turn into a starting point for grey mould.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Schneewittchen’
- A Kordes cultivar of 1958, known in English-speaking countries as Iceberg and in France as Fee des Neiges. White, semi-double flowers in large clusters, fragrance light. It grows more strongly than a typical floribunda rose - to about 1.2-1.5 m in height and about 1 m in width - and tolerates light shade better than most of the group. Inducted into the Rose Hall of Fame of the World Federation of Rose Societies in 1983.
- ‘Friesia’
- A Kordes cultivar (breeding name KORresia), also traded internationally as Sunsprite. Pure, non-fading yellow flowers and a strong, sweet fragrance - one of the most fragrant floribunda roses. A compact shrub, about 0.6-0.8 m. Awarded the German ADR distinction.
- ‘Lilli Marleen’
- A Kordes cultivar of 1959 (KORlima). Dark red, semi-double flowers in dense clusters that stand up well to rain; fragrance weak. A low, compact shrub of about 0.5-0.7 m - a classic rose for low bedding schemes and edgings. Awarded the ADR distinction.
- ‘Nina Weibull’
- A Danish cultivar from the Poulsen nursery, introduced in the 1960s. Dark red flowers in numerous clusters, fragrance barely perceptible. Valued above all for its reliability in a cooler climate and its good foliage health; the shrub is low and compact, about 0.5-0.7 m.
- ‘Leonardo da Vinci’
- A Meilland cultivar of 1993 (MEIdeauri). Very full, quartered flowers in the style of old roses, in a saturated pink, borne several to a shoot; fragrance light. The flowers stand up well to rain, which is not the rule with petals packed as densely as this. The shrub is about 0.7-0.9 m.
- ‘Amber Queen’
- A cultivar from the British Harkness nursery, 1984 (HARroony). Amber-apricot, double flowers with a strong, spicy fragrance, set against large leaves - dark red on young growth, later dark green and glossy. A compact shrub of about 0.6-0.9 m, useful for containers.
Growing and care
Watering
Water abundantly but rather infrequently - once every 5-7 days in summer, thoroughly soaking the soil to the full depth of the root ball. Direct the water to the base of the shrub, not onto the leaves: dense, low-branching floribunda roses dry off slowly, and wet foliage encourages blackspot.
Fertilizing
Stop nitrogen feeding from August so that the shoots have time to ripen before winter. A repeat-flowering floribunda rose uses nutrients throughout the season, which is why feeding after the first flush of flowering noticeably affects the strength of the following ones.
Planting
Fertile, humus-rich, free-draining soil enriched with compost; an open, airy position, but sheltered from strong wind. Set the bud union 3-5 cm below the soil surface.
Pruning
Cut the strongest stems back to 25-30 cm above the ground, and the weaker, thinner ones lower; the varied cutting heights give flowering on several levels and a compact habit. Cut out dead, diseased and crossing stems; cut at an angle just above an outward-facing bud.
Companion plants
Good companions
Klasyczna obwódka rabaty różanej: ma te same wymagania świetlne i glebowe, zakrywa ogołacającą się podstawę krzewów i kwitnie w tym samym rytmie co róże rabatowe.
Sztywne, fioletowe kłosy kontrastują z płaskimi plamami kwiatów róż, a roślina znosi to samo pełne słońce i umiarkowaną wilgotność gleby.
Wydzieliny korzeni nagietka mogą ograniczać populację nicieni glebowych szkodliwych dla róż.
Tradycyjne zestawienie rabatowe — kuliste kwiatostany czosnku zakwitają przed pierwszą falą róż, a jego zapach bywa wiązany z odstraszaniem mszyc.
Bad companions
Zwarty kobierzec u podstawy zatrzymuje wilgoć i ogranicza przewiew w dolnej części krzewu, co sprzyja czarnej plamistości, a płytkie korzenie konkurują o wodę i azot.
Odbierają wodę i składniki z warstwy, w której korzeni się róża, a rzucany cień skraca dobową dawkę słońca poniżej wymaganych sześciu godzin.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
Black to dark-brown spots with ragged margins on rose leaves, surrounded by yellowing of the leaf blade. Infected leaves drop in large numbers, weakening the plant and reducing flowering. The disease intensifies in wet seasons and where air circulation is poor. The spots are usually round, from a few millimetres to about 1-1.5 cm across, and their most important diagnostic feature is the radially fringed, feathery margin - the mycelium spreads beneath the leaf cuticle in all directions, producing the characteristic 'star-shaped' edge (hence the German name Sternrußtau). Under heavy infection the spots merge into larger, irregular patches, and the surrounding yellowing spreads across more and more of the blade until the whole leaf turns yellow and drops. Small, dark conidial fruiting bodies (acervuli) appear on the upper surface of the spots, while the underside of the leaf remains free of any coating. Symptoms appear first on the lower, oldest leaves and gradually move up the shrub, because the spores are carried by water splashing up from the soil and from lower leaves. Small, purplish-red discolorations and blotches may appear on young, green shoots. Prolonged wetting of the leaves for several hours is required for the spores to germinate and infect, which is why the disease breaks out after warm, rainy spells. Repeated defoliation exhausts the shrub, limits flowering and worsens winter hardiness.
Powdery mildewA white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.
RustRusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.
Grey mouldA grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
ThripsVery small (1–2 mm), slender, elongated insects with fringed wings, coloured yellow, brown or black; the larvae are pale yellow and wingless. They suck sap from the cells of leaves, petals and buds. Symptoms: silvery to silvery-grey streaks and blotches on the leaves, tiny black specks of excrement, and distortion of young leaves, buds and flowers. They are especially damaging under glass and on houseplants, and some species transmit plant viruses. The silvery sheen appears once the pest has sucked out the contents of the epidermal cells — the empty, air-filled cells reflect light like metallic streaks; they are accompanied by glistening black specks of excrement, which distinguish thrips feeding from that of most other sap-sucking pests. The mouthparts are piercing-sucking and asymmetric (only a single mandible), so the insect first rasps the tissue and then sucks up the exuding sap. On flowers, feeding produces white or brownish discolouration and distortion of the petals — severe on roses, chrysanthemums, orchids and cyclamens. The life cycle is short and, in warm conditions, the generations overlap: the females lay eggs inserted into the plant tissue, the larvae (two instars) feed on the leaves and then drop to the soil or litter, where they pass through the immobile prepupal and pupal stages. Among the most damaging are the western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) — a key greenhouse pest and vector of tospoviruses (including tomato spotted wilt, TSWV) — and the onion thrips (Thrips tabaci). Only the larvae acquire the viruses, while the adults transmit them, so reducing the larvae also lowers the risk of viral infection.
SawfliesThe larvae strongly resemble the caterpillars of butterflies and moths, but have more pairs of abdominal prolegs (six and more) and single ocelli on the sides of the head, by which they can be told apart. They often feed gregariously, skeletonising the leaves or eating them down to the veins, and can strip a gooseberry or currant bush bare within a few days. The host plants are gooseberry, currant, rose, plum and pine. Symptoms: besides the defoliation of leaves, the larvae of fruit-dwelling species (e.g. on plum) bore into the young fruit set and cause it to drop. Adult sawflies are small (a few millimetres) hymenopterans without a distinct 'wasp waist' — the abdomen is broadly joined to the thorax, which distinguishes them from wasps and bees; the females have a saw-like ovipositor (hence the name 'sawflies'), with which they cut into the tissue of a leaf or fruit set and lay their eggs inside it. The larvae are most often green, matching the colour of the leaf, in some species with dark warts or spots; their prolegs lack the grasping crochets that the caterpillars of moths have, and when disturbed the larvae of many species raise the rear end of the body into a characteristic 'S' shape. The most damaging groups are: the gooseberry sawfly (Nematus ribesii) on gooseberry and currant, stripping the bush from the inside out; the slug sawflies (genus Caliroa) on pear, cherry and plum, whose slimy, slug-like larvae graze away the upper skin of the leaf (windowing), so that the leaf turns brown as if scorched; the fruit sawflies of the genus Hoplocampa on plum and apple, tunnelling galleries into the young fruit set and leaving moist, foul-smelling droppings; and the conifer sawflies (Diprion, Neodiprion) on pine, feeding gregariously on the needles. Life cycle: the adults emerge in spring, the larvae feed for several weeks, after which they descend into the soil or leaf litter, where they pupate in a cocoon and overwinter as a larva (prepupa); depending on the species, 1–3 generations develop in a season.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | — |
| Dogs | None | The petals and leaves are not poisonous; the only real risk is mechanical injury from the prickles. |
| Cats | None | — |
History and origin
The group arose in the first half of the 20th century from crossing polyantha roses, descended from the East Asian Rosa multiflora, with hybrid tea roses. The turning point is taken to be the work of the Danish breeder Svend Poulsen, whose cultivars 'Else Poulsen' and 'Kirsten Poulsen' of 1924 combined the abundant, clustered flowering of the polyanthas with the larger flower and wider colour range of the hybrid teas; at first they were described as hybrid polyanthas, and in the trade they are also known as Poulsen roses. The name 'Floribunda' (from the Latin for abundantly flowering) was popularised in the United States by the firm Jackson & Perkins. In the classification of the World Federation of Rose Societies the group appears under a descriptive name - cluster-flowered roses - but practical terms have survived in the trade: 'roza rabatowa' in Poland and 'Beetrose' in Germany. In Central Europe the tone of breeding was set by the German nurseries Kordes and Tantau and by Poulsen in Denmark, and their cultivars still form the backbone of nursery ranges. Since 1950 new cultivars have been assessed in Germany in the multi-year ADR trial, which rewards healthy foliage, and since the late 1990s the trial has been run without chemical protection - for roses planted en masse and rarely sprayed this is the most practical criterion for choosing a cultivar.
Uses
The primary use is compact bedding: a group of 3-5 shrubs of one cultivar spaced 40-60 cm apart, that is usually 3-5 plants per square metre, gives a uniform block of colour that single specimens scattered around the garden never create. Beyond the bed the group works well for low flowering hedges, edgings along paths, in public planting and in containers on the terrace - a pot of 30-40 l upwards, with drainage and protection for the root ball in winter. For the accompanying planting, low perennials with the same light requirements are chosen - catmint, woodland sage, cranesbills - set at least 40 cm from the base of the shrub so that they do not compete for water or restrict airflow. Planting is done in spring or autumn, setting the bud union 3-5 cm below the soil surface; a new bed should not be established where a rose has been grubbed out without replacing the soil to a depth and width of about 40 cm. For winter the base of the shrub is mounded up with soil or compost to a height of 20-25 cm, so that the bud union is covered; the mound is raked away in March or April. For cut flowers the group is less suitable than the hybrid tea rose: the stalk is shorter and branched, so it is the whole cluster rather than a single stem that is cut for the vase. When planning pruning it is worth remembering that climbing roses are separate groups with different rules: on climbers the framework stems are not shortened but the oldest ones cut out, while ramblers are pruned after flowering, not in early spring.
Trivia
- The name of the group has no botanical standing: Floribunda is a cultivar group, not a species or a hybrid with a Latin name of its own - hence the form Rosa Floribunda Group instead of a two-part species name.
- Eugene S. Boerner, a breeder with the American firm Jackson & Perkins, introduced so many cultivars in this group that the nickname 'Papa Floribunda' stuck to him.
- Cultivars with a large flower borne in small clusters are sometimes separated off as grandifloras - a group recognised in North America but not widely accepted in Europe, where the same cultivars are described either as floribundas or as hybrid teas.
- Schneewittchen from the Kordes nursery, known in English-speaking countries as Iceberg, was inducted into the Rose Hall of Fame of the World Federation of Rose Societies in 1983 and remains one of the most widely planted roses in the world.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a floribunda rose and a hybrid tea rose?
The structure of the inflorescence. The floribunda rose opens its flowers in many-flowered clusters of several to a dozen or more at the tip of the shoot, and the individual bloom is usually 5-8 cm across. The hybrid tea rose bears its flower singly on a long, stiff stalk and usually reaches 10-12 cm across. Hence the difference in use: the floribunda gives a solid block of colour in group planting, while the hybrid tea is the basic material for cut flowers. The growing requirements of both groups are similar - full sun, fertile soil, pruning in early spring - but the floribunda is planted more densely and pruned more lightly.
How and when should you prune a floribunda rose?
The main pruning is done in early spring, when the buds begin to swell and the risk of hard frosts has passed - usually in March or at the beginning of April. The strongest stems are cut back to 25-30 cm above the ground, and the weaker, thinner ones lower; thanks to the varied heights the shrub keeps its framework and flowers on several levels. This is clearly lighter pruning than for hybrid tea roses, which are cut back harder than any other group - to 10-15 cm from the base, that is to a few buds. Whatever the height, dead, diseased and crossing stems are removed, cutting at an angle just above an outward-facing bud.
How should you remove the spent flowers of a floribunda rose?
Not one bloom at a time. Once most of the flowers in a cluster have gone over, the whole flower head is cut off above the first fully developed leaf below it. Snapping off individual spent blooms leaves stalks and rotting petals inside the cluster, which in damp years become a starting point for grey mould. Removing whole flower heads regularly also speeds up the next flush of bloom, because the plant does not invest in setting hips.
How many floribunda roses should you plant per square metre?
Usually 3-5 plants, spaced 40-60 cm apart - more densely than hybrid tea roses, which are planted 50-80 cm apart. The bedding effect only appears with a group of at least 3-5 shrubs of the same cultivar; mixing cultivars of different height and peak flowering time breaks up the uniform block of colour. The most vigorous cultivars, reaching 1.5 m in height and about 1 m in width, need the upper end of the spacing, otherwise the shrubs shade one another and dry off less readily.
Are floribunda roses fragrant?
That depends entirely on the cultivar and not on the group - which is why we do not describe the group as a whole as fragrant. It contains cultivars that are practically scentless as well as strongly perfumed ones: the one most often named is the yellow Friesia from the Kordes nursery, and among those with a spicy scent, Amber Queen. When buying, therefore, check the scent of the particular cultivar, preferably by smelling the flower at the nursery in the middle of the season, because the intensity of the fragrance changes with the weather and the time of day.
Sources
- RHS — Rose pruning: floribunda and hybrid tea rosesInstitution / botanical garden
- World Federation of Rose Societies — klasyfikacja róż ogrodowychInstitution / botanical garden
- ADR — Allgemeine Deutsche RosenneuheitenprüfungInstitution / botanical garden
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