Climbing rose

Rosa Climber Group / Rosa Rambler Group · Climbing rose (EN) · Kletterrose (DE)

The climbing rose is a climbing plant of the genus Rosa, covering two horticultural groups with long framework stems: climbers and ramblers. These stems have no clinging organs, so they need a support and annual tying in. Climbers have thicker, stiffer stems and larger flowers, and most of them repeat-flower from June into autumn; ramblers grow more vigorously, have flexible stems and small flowers in many-flowered clusters, and most of them flower once a year. The pruning date, however, is decided not by the group but by whether the particular cultivar repeat-flowers. The stems are trained as horizontally as possible — only then do flower buds form along their whole length rather than just at the tip.

Full sun/Partial shade Medium watering USDA 5a–9b
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In short

  • It has no clinging organs — the stems have to be tied in to a pergola, trellis, arch or wires stretched across a wall.
  • The pruning date is decided by whether the cultivar repeat-flowers, not by the name of the group: repeat-flowering cultivars are pruned in late winter, once-flowering ones right after the flowers fade.
  • The framework stems are not shortened; the side shoots are cut back to 2–3 eyes (10–15 cm) and the oldest main stems are cut out at the base.
  • A stem trained horizontally or diagonally flowers along its whole length, one trained vertically — almost only at the top.
  • Plant 30–45 cm away from the wall and tilt the root ball towards the support: the strip of ground right by a wall stays dry even after rain.

Botanical data

Family
Rosaceae (Rosaceae)
Height
2–8 m
Width
1.5–3 m
Habit
Spreading
Growth rate
Fast
Position
Full sun, Partial shade
Soil
Loamy, Humus-rich
pH reaction
pH 6–7
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
June–September
Hardiness
USDA 5a–9b
Propagation
From cuttings, By layering

Characteristics

The climbing rose is not a separate species but a term covering two horticultural groups distinguished by their way of growing: the plant produces several long framework stems, growing 1–2 m in a season and serving as a permanent scaffold from which short flowering side shoots emerge each year. The framework stems have no clinging organs whatsoever — neither tendrils like a grapevine, nor clinging roots like ivy, nor twining leaf stalks like a clematis. The rose only hooks its prickles over branches and rough surfaces, and it slides down a smooth wall, which is why every stem has to be tied to a support. The leaf is odd-pinnate, usually made up of 5–7 toothed leaflets, in ramblers more often of 7–9. The two groups differ in habit. Climbers have thicker, stiffer stems, usually reach 2.5–5 m and carry large flowers, borne singly or in loose clusters. Ramblers grow far more vigorously, up to 5–8 m, have thinner, flexible stems and small flowers gathered in clusters of a dozen to several dozen, usually opening in June and July. In cultivation, though, repeat-flowering matters more than habit, because it determines the pruning date — and it is a feature of the cultivar, not of the group. Repeat-flowering cultivars set their buds on side shoots produced in the current season from the framework stem, which is why they are pruned in late winter; once-flowering cultivars flower on stems grown in the previous season, which is why they are pruned only after the flowers have faded. The rule that 'climber equals repeat-flowering, rambler equals a single flush' is only an approximation and has exceptions on both sides: 'Flammentanz' is a once-flowering climber, and 'Super Excelsa' a rambler that repeat-flowers into autumn. Membership of a group is therefore not enough to establish the pruning date; you need to know the flowering rhythm of the particular cultivar. A cultivation trait common to both groups is the strong response to how the stem is positioned. A stem trained vertically sets buds almost only at its tip, because apical dominance stops the lower eyes from breaking; the same stem bent down to the horizontal, or led diagonally, spiralling around a post, produces side shoots along its whole length and flowers from the base to the top. Many cultivars are strongly scented, but fragrance is a feature of the cultivar, not of the group: among the strongly scented ones are 'Zéphirine Drouhin' and 'Compassion', while some of the cultivars with the healthiest foliage have a barely perceptible scent. The value for pollinators works the same way — pollen is available only in single and semi-double flowers with visible stamens, whereas densely double cultivars with a hundred petals or more are practically worthless to bees, because their stamens have been transformed into petals. Hips set only where the spent flowers are not removed, so in practice they appear in autumn mainly on once-flowering cultivars.

Popular cultivars

‘New Dawn’
A climber from 1930, a sport of the cultivar Dr. W. Van Fleet. Pearly pale-pink, semi-double flowers with visible stamens, repeat-flowering, light fragrance; height about 3–4 m. Very healthy foliage and a tolerance of partly shaded positions, including a north wall, that is unusual in roses. As a repeat-flowering cultivar — prune in late winter.
‘Zéphirine Drouhin’
A Bourbon rose from 1868, trained as a climber. Stems almost free of prickles, deep pink, semi-double, strongly scented flowers, repeat-flowering; about 3–4 m. It tolerates partial shade, but the foliage can be prone to blackspot and powdery mildew, so it needs an airy position.
‘Flammentanz’
A Kordes introduction with Rosa × kordesii in its parentage: ADR award in 1952, released to the trade in 1955. Intensely red, loosely double flowers with visible yellow-orange stamens — borne abundantly, but only once a year, in June; about 3–5 m. Very frost-hardy and healthy, fragrance weak, and it sets large hips in autumn. As a once-flowering cultivar it is pruned after the flowers fade, not in late winter — even though it is a climber.
‘Sympathie’
A Kordes introduction, 1964, from the group of Rosa × kordesii hybrids. Velvety, dark red, double flowers, repeat-flowering, height about 3–4 m. Valued for the health of its glossy foliage and for its frost resistance; fragrance weak. Prune in late winter.
‘Rosarium Uetersen’
A Kordes introduction, 1977. Very double, quartered flowers with more than a hundred petals, in a warm, intense pink shade, gathered into clusters; repeat-flowering, height about 2.5–3 m. Named after the rose garden in Uetersen, fragrance light. A flower this full gives pollinators no access to pollen.
‘Super Excelsa’
A repeat-flowering rambler, bred by Karl Hetzl in the 1980s from the classic cultivar Excelsa. Small, carmine-pink flowers in numerous clusters, flexible stems, about 2–3 m — one of the few rambler cultivars suitable for a small arch or post. As a repeat-flowering cultivar it is pruned in late winter, and not in summer after flowering like once-flowering ramblers.

Growing and care

Watering

Water less often but generously, straight at the base of the stems. Plants trained on a wall stand in the rain shadow of the masonry and, for the first two seasons, need watering even when the rest of the garden is moist.

In summer every ~5 days · drought tolerance: Medium

Fertilizing

Stop nitrogen feeding from August, so that the long new growth has time to ripen before winter — unripened tips are the first to be killed by frost.

every 4–6 weeks from April to July · nawóz do róż (NPK), kompost

Planting

Fertile, humus-rich and free-draining soil. Plant 30–45 cm from the wall, tilting the root ball towards the support, with the bud union 3–5 cm below the soil surface. Fit the support (wires, lattice, trellis, pergola) before the plant goes in.

Timing: April–May or September–October · spacing 200–300 cm

Pruning

The framework stems are not shortened in either group: the side shoots are cut back to 2–3 eyes (roughly 10–15 cm from the main stem), and the plant is rejuvenated by cutting out one or two of the oldest, exhausted framework stems right at the base and tying young growth in their place. On once-flowering cultivars the same operation is carried out in summer, right after the flowers fade, cutting some of the oldest, spent stems out at ground level and tying in this year's growth. In both cases the stems are trained horizontally or diagonally.

Timing: The date is decided by whether the cultivar repeat-flowers, and not by the group it belongs to. Repeat-flowering cultivars — late winter (February–March), before growth starts; this covers most climbers, but also repeat-flowering ramblers such as 'Super Excelsa'. Once-flowering cultivars — summer, right after the flowers fade; this covers most ramblers, but also once-flowering climbers such as 'Flammentanz'. · Caution: Do not shorten the framework stems the way you would on a hybrid tea rose — that deprives the plant of its flowering wood and pushes the growth upwards. Do not prune a once-flowering cultivar in late winter: it flowers on stems from the previous season, so a spring cut removes the whole of that year's flowering (this applies to once-flowering climbers too, not only to ramblers). Conversely, putting off the pruning of a repeat-flowering cultivar until summer takes away the growth on which the next flushes of flowers would have formed. Do not prune in autumn — frost damage is removed only in spring, when its extent can be seen.

Companion plants

Good companions

A load-bearing structure: a pergola, trellis, arch or wires stretched across a wallPractical observation

Róża pnąca nie ma organów czepnych i bez podpory oraz corocznego przywiązywania pędów kładzie się na ziemi — konstrukcję montuje się przed posadzeniem rośliny.

Large-flowered clematisGardening tradition

Klasyczne zestawienie na jednej konstrukcji: klematis kwitnie w innym rytmie i przedłuża efekt ozdobny; sadzony po przeciwnej stronie podpory nie konkuruje bezpośrednio o strefę korzeniową.

Faassen's catmintPractical observation

Niska bylina o zbliżonych wymaganiach świetlnych maskuje ogołacającą się z wiekiem podstawę pędów, nie zacieniając ich górnej części.

English lavenderPractical observation

Silny zapach lawendy ogranicza nalot mszyc na róże; wymaga jednak własnej, suchszej strefy podlewania, bo nie znosi tak częstego nawożenia i podlewania jak róża.

Bad companions

A house wall with no gap and no airflow (stems pressed straight against the render)Practical observation

Brak cyrkulacji powietrza za pędami sprzyja mączniakowi prawdziwemu i czarnej plamistości, a pas gruntu tuż przy murze pozostaje suchy nawet po deszczu.

A site where another rose has been grubbed out, without replacing the soilPractical observation

Zmęczenie gleby po różach sprawia, że nowo posadzone rośliny słabo się przyjmują — konieczna jest wymiana podłoża na głębokość i szerokość około 40 cm.

European hornbeamPractical observation

Gęsty żywopłot lub drzewo tuż przy podporze zacienia pędy i silnie konkuruje o wodę w tej samej warstwie gleby, co przekłada się na słabe kwitnienie róży.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Rose black spot

Black to dark-brown spots with ragged margins on rose leaves, surrounded by yellowing of the leaf blade. Infected leaves drop in large numbers, weakening the plant and reducing flowering. The disease intensifies in wet seasons and where air circulation is poor. The spots are usually round, from a few millimetres to about 1-1.5 cm across, and their most important diagnostic feature is the radially fringed, feathery margin - the mycelium spreads beneath the leaf cuticle in all directions, producing the characteristic 'star-shaped' edge (hence the German name Sternrußtau). Under heavy infection the spots merge into larger, irregular patches, and the surrounding yellowing spreads across more and more of the blade until the whole leaf turns yellow and drops. Small, dark conidial fruiting bodies (acervuli) appear on the upper surface of the spots, while the underside of the leaf remains free of any coating. Symptoms appear first on the lower, oldest leaves and gradually move up the shrub, because the spores are carried by water splashing up from the soil and from lower leaves. Small, purplish-red discolorations and blotches may appear on young, green shoots. Prolonged wetting of the leaves for several hours is required for the spores to germinate and infect, which is why the disease breaks out after warm, rainy spells. Repeated defoliation exhausts the shrub, limits flowering and worsens winter hardiness.

Powdery mildew

A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.

Rust

Rusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Spider mites

Tiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.

Thrips

Very small (1–2 mm), slender, elongated insects with fringed wings, coloured yellow, brown or black; the larvae are pale yellow and wingless. They suck sap from the cells of leaves, petals and buds. Symptoms: silvery to silvery-grey streaks and blotches on the leaves, tiny black specks of excrement, and distortion of young leaves, buds and flowers. They are especially damaging under glass and on houseplants, and some species transmit plant viruses. The silvery sheen appears once the pest has sucked out the contents of the epidermal cells — the empty, air-filled cells reflect light like metallic streaks; they are accompanied by glistening black specks of excrement, which distinguish thrips feeding from that of most other sap-sucking pests. The mouthparts are piercing-sucking and asymmetric (only a single mandible), so the insect first rasps the tissue and then sucks up the exuding sap. On flowers, feeding produces white or brownish discolouration and distortion of the petals — severe on roses, chrysanthemums, orchids and cyclamens. The life cycle is short and, in warm conditions, the generations overlap: the females lay eggs inserted into the plant tissue, the larvae (two instars) feed on the leaves and then drop to the soil or litter, where they pass through the immobile prepupal and pupal stages. Among the most damaging are the western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) — a key greenhouse pest and vector of tospoviruses (including tomato spotted wilt, TSWV) — and the onion thrips (Thrips tabaci). Only the larvae acquire the viruses, while the adults transmit them, so reducing the larvae also lowers the risk of viral infection.

Sawflies

The larvae strongly resemble the caterpillars of butterflies and moths, but have more pairs of abdominal prolegs (six and more) and single ocelli on the sides of the head, by which they can be told apart. They often feed gregariously, skeletonising the leaves or eating them down to the veins, and can strip a gooseberry or currant bush bare within a few days. The host plants are gooseberry, currant, rose, plum and pine. Symptoms: besides the defoliation of leaves, the larvae of fruit-dwelling species (e.g. on plum) bore into the young fruit set and cause it to drop. Adult sawflies are small (a few millimetres) hymenopterans without a distinct 'wasp waist' — the abdomen is broadly joined to the thorax, which distinguishes them from wasps and bees; the females have a saw-like ovipositor (hence the name 'sawflies'), with which they cut into the tissue of a leaf or fruit set and lay their eggs inside it. The larvae are most often green, matching the colour of the leaf, in some species with dark warts or spots; their prolegs lack the grasping crochets that the caterpillars of moths have, and when disturbed the larvae of many species raise the rear end of the body into a characteristic 'S' shape. The most damaging groups are: the gooseberry sawfly (Nematus ribesii) on gooseberry and currant, stripping the bush from the inside out; the slug sawflies (genus Caliroa) on pear, cherry and plum, whose slimy, slug-like larvae graze away the upper skin of the leaf (windowing), so that the leaf turns brown as if scorched; the fruit sawflies of the genus Hoplocampa on plum and apple, tunnelling galleries into the young fruit set and leaving moist, foul-smelling droppings; and the conifer sawflies (Diprion, Neodiprion) on pine, feeding gregariously on the needles. Life cycle: the adults emerge in spring, the larvae feed for several weeks, after which they descend into the soil or leaf litter, where they pupate in a cocoon and overwinter as a larva (prepupa); depending on the species, 1–3 generations develop in a season.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans None
Dogs Mild The thorns can cause mechanical injuries; the petals and leaves are not poisonous.
Cats None

History and origin

Climbing forms of roses were grown in Europe long before modern breeding — they include the Bourbon and Noisette roses of the first half of the 19th century, among them the almost thornless 'Zéphirine Drouhin', introduced in France in 1868 and still planted today. The breakthrough for today's ramblers was the introduction into Europe and America of East Asian trailing and climbing species, above all Rosa multiflora and Rosa wichuraiana. From them the rambler cultivars inherited flexible stems, small flowers in large clusters and enormous vigour; crosses involving R. wichuraiana produced the classic 'Dorothy Perkins' (1901) and 'Excelsa' (1909) in the early 20th century. A separate line was opened by the German breeder Wilhelm Kordes, who in the 1940s raised a hybrid designated Rosa × kordesii — the source of the frost hardiness and healthy foliage passed on to cultivars such as 'Flammentanz' (ADR award in 1952, released to the trade in 1955) and 'Sympathie' (1964), which to this day form the backbone of nursery ranges in Central Europe. The most recognisable climbing rose, however, remains the American 'New Dawn', a sport of the cultivar 'Dr. W. Van Fleet' filed in 1930: it was covered by United States Plant Patent number 1 — as the first plant in the history of that register — and in 1997 it was inducted into the Hall of Fame of the World Federation of Rose Societies.

Uses

The climbing rose is a structural plant — the support is decided on before planting, because after a few years a lignified framework stem can no longer be repositioned without breaking it. On a wall, horizontal wires are used at a spacing of 30–45 cm, held a few centimetres off the render on spacers so that air can move behind the stems. On a pergola, arch or trellis the stems are tied in with soft twine or tape, in a figure of eight, so that the loop does not tighten around the stem as it thickens from year to year. A smooth metal post with nothing wound around it is not a support — the plant has nothing to hook onto. Planting is done in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), spaced 2–3 m apart, 30–45 cm away from the wall and with the root ball tilted towards the support. The strip of ground right by a wall stays dry even after long rain and is the commonest cause of poor growth in plants set against a building. The bud union is buried 3–5 cm below the soil surface, exactly as in shrub roses — climbing roses are propagated commercially mainly by budding onto a rootstock, while in the garden the simplest methods are layering or hardwood cuttings. In the first two or three years the plants are hardly pruned at all: you are building the framework, spreading each new long stem out like a fan and as horizontally as possible. Only after that does the pruning routine begin, and its date is decided by the flowering rhythm of the cultivar, not by its group name: repeat-flowering cultivars are pruned in late winter, once-flowering ones right after the flowers fade. Spent flowers of repeat-flowering cultivars are removed to keep the following flushes coming; on once-flowering cultivars they can be left on to give hips in autumn, which birds eat readily. For winter the base is mounded up with soil or compost to a height of 20–25 cm; the stems are usually not taken down from the support. The classic partner on a shared structure is a clematis, planted on the other side of the support. At the base of the rose, which becomes bare from below with age, low perennials planted at least 40 cm away from the stems work well.

Trivia

  • 'New Dawn' is the first plant ever covered by a United States plant patent — in 1931 it was given number 1 in the newly created register.
  • Bending a stem down to the horizontal is not a cosmetic operation but a physiological one: it weakens apical dominance, so that the eyes break along the whole length of the stem and flowers also appear low down, at eye level.
  • 'Zéphirine Drouhin', introduced in 1868, has stems almost free of prickles — which is why for more than a century and a half it has been planted by gates, paths and entrances, where passers-by brush against the stems.
  • Ramblers inherited their vigour from the East Asian species Rosa multiflora and Rosa wichuraiana — hence the cultivars that outgrow a small garden arch in a few seasons and reach into the crown of an old tree.
  • The division into climbers and ramblers does not coincide with the division into repeat-flowering and once-flowering cultivars — there are both once-flowering climbers ('Flammentanz') and ramblers that flower into autumn ('Super Excelsa', bred by Karl Hetzl).

Frequently asked questions

Is a climbing rose pruned in the same way as a hybrid tea rose?

No — and this is the commonest mistake. Hybrid tea roses are pruned hardest, shortening the stems to 3–5 healthy eyes, that is roughly 10–15 cm above the ground; floribunda (cluster-flowered) roses somewhat more gently, to about 15–20 cm, with some of the stems left longer to keep the framework of the shrub. In a climbing rose the framework stems are not shortened at all — it is they that carry the flowering for many years. Only the side shoots are cut, back to 2–3 eyes (roughly 10–15 cm from the main stem), and the plant is rejuvenated by cutting out one or two of the oldest, exhausted framework stems right at the base and tying young growth in their place.

When should a climbing rose be pruned — in late winter or after flowering?

It is decided by whether the cultivar repeat-flowers, and not by whether it is described as a climber or as a rambler. A repeat-flowering cultivar sets its buds on side shoots produced in the current season, so it is pruned in late winter, in February and March, before growth starts. A once-flowering cultivar flowers on stems from the previous season, so it is pruned only after the flowers have faded, in summer, cutting some of the oldest stems out at ground level and tying in this year's growth. Membership of a group is only an approximation: most climbers repeat-flower and most ramblers flower once, but there are exceptions on both sides — 'Flammentanz' is a once-flowering climber (prune after flowering), and 'Super Excelsa' a repeat-flowering rambler (prune in late winter). If you do not know the cultivar, watch the plant for a season: flowering that comes back in August and September means a repeat-flowering cultivar.

How do you tell a climber from a rambler?

By habit and inflorescence, not by flowering time. A climber has thicker, stiffer stems, usually reaches 2.5–5 m and carries large flowers, borne singly or a few together. A rambler grows more vigorously, up to 5–8 m, has thinner, flexible stems that can be wound around a post, and small flowers gathered in clusters of a dozen to several dozen; its leaf is more often made up of 7–9 leaflets instead of 5–7. The distinction is useful when choosing a support — a rambler outgrows a small arch in a few seasons — whereas establishing the pruning date needs different information: whether the cultivar repeat-flowers.

Why does my climbing rose flower only at the top, near the tips of the stems?

Almost always the cause is training the stems vertically. A stem growing upright sets buds almost only at its tip, because apical dominance stops the lower eyes from breaking. Bending the stem down to the horizontal, or leading it diagonally, spiralling around a post, breaks that dominance and starts side shoots along its whole length. The stems are positioned while they are still flexible — in the first or second year after planting; a lignified stem can no longer be bent down safely.

Does a climbing rose climb up a wall or netting by itself?

No. Unlike ivy (clinging roots), Virginia creeper (adhesive pads) or clematis (twining leaf stalks), a rose has no clinging organs at all — it only hooks its prickles over branches and rough surfaces. Without a support and without tying in, the stems bend away and lie down on the ground. Horizontal wires on the wall, a lattice, a trellis, an arch or a pergola are needed, and the new growth has to be tied in every year.

How do you protect a climbing rose over winter?

After the first frosts the base of the plant is mounded up with soil or compost to a height of 20–25 cm, so that the bud union is covered. The stems spread out on the support are usually not taken down; in regions with hard winters it is worth wrapping the youngest, least ripened tips in fleece, because they are the first to be killed by frost. Pruning is not done in autumn — frost-damaged tips are removed only in late winter, when the extent of the damage can be seen. The mound is raked away in March or April, once the hard frosts have passed.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/25/2026.

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